In middle of a Rainforest – Agumbe (In hunt for the King Cobra)

Do you know what to expect in a Rain Forest? Well neither did I until I was there and until I experienced it bit by bit, I could recollect every second of my experience.

We started on a rainy June evening from Bangalore we were 3 of us traveling in a bus from Majestic, Bangalore to Agumbe. Prasad, Shaon and I. Prasad and Shaon were my newly made friends, they shared the same passion as I did, wildlife photography and a love for serpents (Snakes). Yes! Where most people do not dare to crawl in, that’s where I do and I got 2 new friends who would do the same. Geared up for the hunt with our cameras, macro lenses (important for snake, reptile, insect photography) and our telephoto zooms we were good to go for the hunt. Our journey was going to take anywhere between 6 to 7 hours down south from Bangalore. In anticipation of the King Cobra and seeing the serpent in the wild I could not get sleep while the rest of my team members where fast asleep, I was busy reading some books and at times tried to take a peek and watch the rainfall outside. One must know for knowledge purposes, that Agumbe receives one of the heaviest rainfalls in the country and could compete Cherapunji with 2,647MM of rainfall just in the month of July.

We reached our destination at 7 am in the morning and our host was waiting at the bus stop to give us a ride deep inside the forest. We were going to be put up at the KCRE reaseach station, which was around 8kms inside the forest (if you want to find out more just type KCRE on Google). The place is headed by a gentleman called Gowrishankar, a very famour herpatologist in India and second after Rom Whitaker. He had immense experience on reptiles, my next 2 days were set to be just awesome. Rainforest in the month of June of course we expected heavy rainfall, however we were welcomed by a kiss of early morning sunshine.

Upon reaching our destination, we kept our gear freshened up, just when we were about to hit the breakfast table, a person reported spotting Vine Snake inside the bush. So of course breakfast did not remain a priority any more, gears were unpacked, with all necessary equipment and all of us were inside the bush. The poor animal must have thought “Wow! for a day I am Leonardo Di’ Caprio” if it had the brains to think, but honestly everyone pounded inside the bushes to get a snap of this beautiful creep.

The picture above could tell you a little story about the beauty. I had clicked some 20 odd photos of this guy and chose to keep this, this was my favorite shot.

Mr. Gowrishankar had to finally intervene to get us back to the breakfast table and leave the animal alone. Needless to say he was not happy with us being so close to the animal, as some of us were 20 MM away from the guy above. Anyways after hearing a mouthful we settled down for breakfast and after filling in our stomach with whatever was left for breakfast (as most of it was finished) we went for our day harping. Now I must tell you, rainforests can have leeches in abundance so if you ever plan a visit to the place, either have well equipments, like a gumboot is absolutely must (protects you from snakebite and leeches) and anti leech socks which are available in the market, having said that leeches could crawl inside your clothes if you give them the slightest of chance. Coming back to our day harping, we could not find snakes but on our way through the forest, we could spot several beautiful creatures, starting from small bugs, snails, frogs (There are 157 species of them in these rainforests of western ghats) their colors are mezmerizing, though a lot of you could think it’s creep! Check out the snaps.

While walking through the forest honestly I was just trying to trace a King Cobra (very difficult to find during the rainy season, as this is the time the female build a nest and protects the eggs and males generally hibernate). After a good walk for close to 2 hours inside the deep forest and by now it was noon, we boys decided to take a dip in the stream flowing through the forest, so quickly got ready and jumped in the stream, the water was chilling down to the bones and I am not exaggerating but it was refreshing after the walk through the humid conditions inside a Rainforest. You have to experience it to understand the conditions, anyways it did not take much time for us to get used to the water and after a few minutes it started out to be real fun, with some of the guys (we met at KCRE) guarding our equipments we were having beautiful time in the water and we refused to come out, till the time it actually started to rain heavily in the interest to protect our camera and gears from getting soaked in the rain.

Well by the time we were back to the KCRE camp, we had taken a double bath and were hungry beyond control, so as soon as we returned lunch was served and we had a wonderful warm lunch with our wet clothes on, put the camera batteries on charge (Phones were not needed, as deep inside the forest anyways there is no network, so you are in a civilized world surrounded by nature) unlike the places we live in! So getting back after lunch we freshened up again and had an afternoon session with Gowrishankar and his team on Snakes, the different species found in Agumbe, the venomous and the non-venomous ones, the session lasted for couple of hours which of course enlightened our knowledge on several aspects, which we had no idea about.

After completing the session we started our trek to the highest peak of the Agumbe forest, it was a very difficult 12 kms trek uphill, in rainy conditions it was all the more difficult because the path was rocky and slippery, one wrong step could easily give you broken bones or a bad injury, worst case a pit viper bite could be a disaster as they are plenty in numbers, we had to keep a watch on the low hanging branches on our way since these are where the vipers generally rest, we unfortunately did not find a single viper through our trek, but once we were up the hill, it was a beautiful sight, with clouds coming down on us and infrequent rainfalls getting us drenched, it was totally worth the effort we took that evening. Unfortunately though we didn’t find even a grasshopper to click and Camera and equipments were mostly in the bag since it was raining and at times it was heavy rainfall.

On our way down Prasad slipped a bit, but he managed to control himself and the last moment, it was scary and a heart stopping moment I must say, there was no more disaster on the way down, we were careful about the branches and by the time we were back, this time a baby Vine snake was spotted and here it is. It was again a beautiful little guy.

We reached KCRE after getting this guy litterally mad at us, the poor guy decided to leave before we did and fortunately Mr. Gowrishankar was no where close this time!

So eventually evening had set in and let me tell you this, Rainforests in dark has its own life and beauty, this could give you a separate kind of a high! With crickets creeking and pitch dark outside, we settled in to watch a couple of documentaries on King Cobra. People who love snakes, will have a separate affection for this species and of course I do needless to say! Though I was tired from the entire day and without much sleep from previous night, I continued to watch both the documentaries, by the time this was over it was 8 in the evening, Dinner was served and after our dinner we went out for Night Harping (Night harping is much needed in Rainforests, since a lot of reptiles and Amphibians are nocturnal species for example, Vipers almost all kind, Malabar gliding frog etc. ), we walked through the forest holding a torch in one hand and camera on the other, the darkness was haunting with a light drizzle and crickets and frogs keeping the forest alive with their sounds. Though the night harping was not very successful on this occasion, since I could get a shot of Malabar Gliding Frog and nothing else, I guess the vipers went separate direction that night or already knew we were coming. Here is a snap of the Malabar gliding frog.

This snap was taken with the torch stuck in my mouth, the light on the frog. My camera had to be manually focused as unfortunately the lens couldn’t focus in low light conditions. This is all the more special as the effort put in, into this was immense! BTW one must be wondering why couldn’t I use flash. To answer that this picture was taken in a manual mode and flashes generally disturb animals and wildlife leading to unprovoked attack or the animal running away from the place. At 10 pm in the night we were back to KCRE camp and by 11 we all were fast asleep in the peaceful environment of the forest in our warm and cozy tents.

The next morning June 17 2018, I remember I woke up to the chirming of the Great Indian Horbill, unfortunately I could not get a good shot of the bird, due to the overcast conditions. Let’s come back to the more interesting bit of my waking up, I woke up and there were birds chirming all around as we were in the middle of a rain forest, I was trying to hurriedly get out of my tent, I opened the zipper of the tent and there I found a juvenile Indian Cobra resting in front of my tent. I tried to check if there is an alternative method to get out of there, but our dear Cobra was in no mood to oblige with me, since it was already raining outside I guess it did not want to get drenched. Next thing I did was, I called Shaon, he was occupying the tent next to me and told him about the problem, he got out of the tent and with all might tried to shew it away, then came the even more beautiful part of the scene, provoked the unhappy Cobra opened it’s hood, though it was not a big one but a snake that juvenile with hood opened and hissing, just looked marvellous, only our cameras were kept with our luggage at the common area and most of us had put the battery on charge, else we would have certainly taken a few snaps. The morning adventure was nice, while we were busy watching the Cobra a few other guys appeared there who were residing in other tents and this might have disturbed the poor little guy and off she went out in the rain. Here one must understand that snakes have nothing against the human being, it opens the hood to warn the victim of the upcoming danger, when cornered with a huge hissing sound, still if you provoke the creature it will bite with no options left. One must also know that snake venoms are basically their saliva with a complex protien content, it helps in digesting their prey and snakes generally hate to use this protein on other animals that are not their prey. So most Cobra bites are actually dry bites, unless of course you are bitten by a Juvenile snake, that wouldn’t know about dry bites. Additionally Juvenile snakes have very potent venom and could kill an adult instantaneously.

With the Cobra now gone we got up and freshened up quickly and got back to hut had breakfast and decided to go in search of a King Cobra nest, generally finding a nest is extremely difficult and it is deep inside forest. Shaon, Prasad and I decided we were going to get deep inside the forest and try to locate nest, BTW if you are interested watch a documentary of Rom Whitaker on YouTube published by the National Geographic Channel on King Cobra, he states that in his 2 decades of research he found only 4 King Cobra nests and Rom Whitaker researches primarily on King Cobra. Even Gowrishankar did not mention about finding too many of these nests, anyways having said that we left for the jungle and this time we did not take a guide with us since those parts are forbidden and we were not supposed to be there. Who cares, we went on the path all geared up, took a few snaps of some frog species and were looking for nests, this particular place was covered with trees and was dark with already overcast conditions, so at times we had to use torch lights, to our tough luck we could not find a nest but we were infested by leeches, leeches entered the boots, inside T-shirts, so by the time this trek was over we were removing leeches from each others body. These creeps are horrible, they could get in and start sucking on blood without a person knowing about it, and once removed you would continue to bleed for sometime as leeches disable a clotting agent of our blood with a chemical in their saliva. Anyways after getting rid of these creeps, we were back on the road and decided to do some bird photography and went to a beautiful part of the forest where we found birds, though this was not the birding season, we found a few jungle barbets and bulbul species, which was a consolation for us after that heck of a trek. Here are some photos, infact I found a beautiful cartepillar.


The morning ended on a good note, after a hearty lunch back at our camp, it was time to rest a bit as we had eaten too much. Mr. Gowrishankar meanwhile was kind enough to show us a unexpected thing, he had rescued a few Cobra eggs a few weeks back and they were hatching, to our great joy we saw a kiddo Indian Cobra hatching out of the egg, since we were only 3 of us, we had a lot of time to sit and watch, with strict instructions of no photography. It was an experience in itself, all this while I had seen such scenes on National Geographic Channel and couldn’t believe I was watching it sitting in middle of a Rainforest. With this done, finally the Sun had shown up on the rain forest for a bit, we once again went out for Birding, in the afternoon, but could not find many species, we spent around 3 hours roaming the forest and it was 5.30 pm when we returned to the camp. Packed our bags had tea as we were drenched in rain multiple times. Spend some time reflecting on our photography, and 7 pm we left for the bus stop. That marked an end to a wonderful weekend spent in the Rainforests of western ghat and by 8.30 in the evening we were on the bus on our way home, with Mr. Gowrishankar traveling with us, we had a nice time chatting till late in the night and it was an experience in itself.

Gokarna with friends

Day 1

The night of 8th February we were set to travel to Gokarna from Bangalore. There were 6 of us, we booked a self drive Scorpio from Voler Cars and were ready to go out there and have fun.

The night however did not start as expected. We had decided to start at 8 in the evening, however our car was delayed by Voler, it was a lesson well learnt from the challenges I faced that evening. The car was supposed to be delivered at 5.30 pm which was finally delivered by Voler at 12.30 am. None the less, I picked up my friends from the point we were going to start and finally our journey started at 01.30 am in the night. Though we lost a lot of time, but we were happy that we were finally set out on the road.
Aarish took the responsibility to take us out of Bangalore and we were out on highway in no time. Once on the highway and the car moving at 100kms an hour, and nice songs playing in the background, our mood was all set for the fun ahead. Our first stop was at the CCD on NH 44, after having the Coffee I took up the driver’s seat.
As I said we were six of us in the car, Aarish, Akrati, Kishore, Sujata, Vineeta and I (Kaustav). We continued on NH 44 for the next 5 odd hours and stopped for breakfast at 7 in the morning at a highway dhaba, after some rest and warm food we decided to swap driver’s again and Aarish was good to take the responsibility to take us through the remaining of our journey. I volunteered to become his navigator holding the map. At around 9 in the morning we were driving through to Gokarna the roads were beautiful, crossing a stretch of Forest early in the morning I was resisting really hard to request for stop and bring my camera out for some bird photography, but then that was definitely not a wise idea since we had lost more than 6 hours in Bangalore.
Our gang behind was playing wonderful music to keep Aarish and I energetic and movitated enough to continue on the road. The talks in the car, was also setting up the mood, the in particular the #tenttopics. The journey in the car finally came to an end at 12.30 pm exactly 12 hours after we had started, we reached our destination a bit tired, but all set to make the most of it.
Our accommodation was booked on the beach however once we reached the place, we found it was not that hygenic and even the tents were dirty. So we quickly set out to look for other places and managed to find another nice place real quick on the same beach. After having a nice lunch we sat there as a team to discuss the plans for the evening and then everyone was in their rooms to get freshed up and catch up with a much deserved power nap. I on the other hand had ideas of my own. I took a nice cool shower, brought out my camera and went straight to the beach at 3.30 in the afternoon, I won’t say that the weather was wonderful with summer knocking on the Indian doors, beach at 3.30 in there afternoon is frying but none the less I wanted to enjoy the view and take pictures even if the light was too much with the Sun shining bright. I did so, took some nice landscape photos and of the sea, to my surprise met Vineeta on the beach and even she had the same idea of not wasting time taking a power nap. After a little chit chat we decided to wake up the rest of the gang as it was already 4.30 in the evening and we had to get started with our adventure, and after successfully doing so we set foot out at 5 in the evening with the Sun still shining bright 🌞
We set out for Kudle beach, on our way Aarish, Akrati, Vineeta and Sujata decided to take a camel ride , so the poor camels had to bear with them πŸ˜›πŸ˜œ
Well I was busy taking their photographs and their wonderful expression, after finally doing away with the Camels and close to 50 shots we decided to continue on our journey toward Kudle, on the way playing beach football Aarish and I continued… Nobody could honestly tell looking at us that we had just covered 500 kms journey between us, as there was not a sign of exhaustion on our face and the same applies to our passengers. With so much energy we completed the trek in no time and we were at the Kudle beach. I must thank Kishori Lal for carrying my bag while I was busy with the football still.
On our way we met a few people had a bit of chat which is always nice when you are traveling. At Kudle I quickly got ready to snap the sunset on the beautiful Arabian Sea and I ended up snapping some 150 odd photos, rest of my friends were busy taking a dip in the sea except for Akrati and I all thanks to her again for keeping company and appreciating my photography. Good friends are those who keep each other motivated to do good work and I am blessed enough to have met them.
The sun had already gone down evening had set in the guys and gals after having a dip in the sea went to a small shack to change, except for Aarish he decided to accompany us, finally we set out for our stay and by 7 after completing through the same bit of trek we reached. After a quick fresh up we decided to sit at the beach, the evening was nice and airy and it started to get a bit colder from the afternoon, we ordered tea, with Aarish playing the guitar, we were all set for the perfect evening anyone could ask for. The Kishore Kumar and Mohammed Rafi within us started to come out bit by bit, we finished our dinner early after the tea since we wanted to continue till late in the night and didn’t wish to sleep hungry, after completing the dinner and some lovely drinks with it, we continued with music, walk on the beach till 1.00 am in the night and then exhausted we retired to our rooms for a much deserved sleep. The fun was to continue the next day.

Day 2

When it dawns it is a beginning to a new day! Well we believe in that and that’s what makes a trip more fun.. After all the fun and exhaustion, all of us rested well in our den. I had plans to photograph the sunrise next morning and trek to the small hill forest for bird photography. It did not happen the way it was planned, I got up at 9 am in the morning, the Sun had already risen to full and birds had left their nest.. by now. So the next best thing to do was to jump into the sea, quickly got freshed up and went straight to the beach to find my other 5 partners in deep meditation at the beach, or some were practicing yoga. I had other plans which was as I said jump into the Sea, by the time I reached the beach I found dear Kishori Lal not meditating.. so both of us just ran inside the water.
It was refreshing the water was cold it was still not super hot outside so Kishore and I decided to be in the water for sometime, very soon we were joined by Sujata and her swimming stunts in the sea was worth watching (without a life jacket), but she was quick enough to learn that sea is very different than the swimming pools in the city after possibly gulping down half a litre of saline water, but as they say it is never too late to learn πŸ˜‚πŸ€£
Meanwhile the remaining 3 had completed their meditation and yoga and went to their rooms, we had fun for another 15 odd minutes and then decided to hog on food as we were hungry, breakfast was calling us to the tables. So we went to get freshed up, the bathrooms were occupied, so Kishori Lal planned to bathe in open air, there was a nice shower built by the property owner.. however I guess he forgot to pump the water to tank.. so Kishori being Kishore pleaded with songs to the shower and it went kind of like this (Aaja Aaja.. mein hu pyar tera… etc etc).. finally the water heard his voice and so that he doesn’t sing anymore.. decided to flow and Kishori succeeded in having bath in the open air.. I have a video of that.. but that is exclusively for the group and can’t be published here.
After breakfast the ladies decided to have a photo session on the beach and Aarish was kind enough to become the photographer, I was not available as I was hogging in foodπŸ˜›πŸ˜œ and finally Akrati with all her might decided to conquer her fears and get into the sea. It was such a grace though she was mostly playing with the sand given the depth she was at. The photo session went well and after I finished up with my breakfast I did some photo sessions (I of course being the photographerπŸ˜›πŸ˜œ) took some beautiful photos. Which again received lots of appreciation, after they were published.
So it was time to jump back into the car and head back to Bangalore..All packed and geared up for another 12 hours in the car we set foot on the road. We for sure knew it was going to be tiring, but we had company to keep each other motivated and the fun continued as we started. Sujata decided to be the navigator for myself and she did a very good job, I must say!
After picking up some essentials from Gokarna and filing in the car, we hit the road. Sujata from time to time kept giving me the distance being covered and I realized that we were actually going at a good rate, without taking much of a risk related to over speeding. The next best thing was the ghat roads, the road I must say was beautiful with so much green at both sides of the road, we couldn’t resist ourselves but stop.
For the next hour we had photo sessions once again different poses and pictures being snapped, it was overall fun, nobody for sure even felt for a moment that we were going back to Bangalore and the trip was going to end in another few hours. We were just being there at that moment and we made the best of it. Well after the photo sessions it was time to get back on with the journey, the road ahead was difficult but it was definitely not impossible, so we climbed up and down through the ghats and we made the journey look cool with the beautiful songs playing in the background. Our DJ Vineeta and DJ Akrati had volunteered to take the responsibility and I must say they did a very good job! Except at times you know.. it happens 🀐
Our next stop had to be for lunch, but we could not find a good restaurant or a dhaba for that matter, Kishore was kind enough to get some Bananas and there were some snack to keep us going until we found something on the road. Meanwhile Aarish was busy trying to locate a good Dhaba, but the ones we found on Google map were not that great to sit and have lunch, the priority was hygiene, additionally most of them were shut(possibly because it was late in the afternoon). Anyways we continued with our snack and Sujata was kind to keep passing it to me as well! While I was focusing on the road, the chit chat, fun and humours in the car kept us going, even though everyone was super hungry by now. Finally we were out of the ghats and we were in the forest roads when Sujata decided to take a break from being the navigator and thereby donated her stoll to the leopards of the jungle, but it happens (badi badi deshon mein, aesi choti choti kand hoti rehti hai…πŸ˜›πŸ˜œ)
So Kishori was my next navigator for another 80 odd kms till we touched the NH44, we made another small stop to hydrate ourselves with tender coconut water. Finally at 4 pm in the evening we found the dhaba we had breakfast at the previous day and stopped for I guess it is called brunch. By this time I had called upon Aarish to be my navigator and when we reached the dhaba I was exhausted and needed rest I had completed 4.5 hours of drive, Aarish was kind enough to take up the responsibility. We finished food and hit the road at 5 pm.. This time Aarish was the driver and scared (of roads) πŸ˜›πŸ˜œ Akrati was the navigator. Well she did a good job as well, the music had stopped by now as we needed to chit chat a bit, and now that I was free from driving I strated with my sense of humor and I guess nobody felt offended because everyone was having a nice time.. Finally I realized I needed to shut up when Sujata plugged in her ear phones to listen to songs, that’s when I decided to have a power nap. There was a nice conversation going in the front of the car which I guess kept both of them motivated to carry on, on the journey, with everybody by this time sleeping around them.
Trust me driving is tiring even if it is a passion for a person like I am. There has to be a lot of focus on the road as you are dealing with super heavy vehicles to unreasonable bikers on the highway, but once again I guess it is the company that matters and when you have good set of people you don’t feel tired and can focus well!
It was around 8 we stopped for dinner and we were around 140 odd kms away from Bangalore, the weather had become good, it was raining outside, warm dinner was served and for me, ice cream was my dinner since the brunch I had eaten was quite heavy.
Took up the driving for the last few kms left and in midst of heavy rain maintained a good rate to finally reach the corridors of our homes at 12.00 am in the night. Dropped off Sujata at her place, and Kishori Lal near to his final destination. Rest of us retired at Vineeta’s place for good.
Got up 4 am in the morning, Aarish had a flight back to his home dropped him off to the airport, reached home finally at 6 am in the morning. Home Sweet Home!
This trip was one of best I had! If not the best so far, it was all the more relaxing for all 6 of us.. I am sure it was a much needed break from our little battles we are fighting in life. Escaping is not a solution, however these small escapades keeps us going, there can be nothing other than travel and when there is a good company around can keep an individual relaxed. This is my take from this beautiful trip of 2 and half days.. and I just hope we have many more such trips to look forward to.. until then! Sayonara, Astalavista, Adios… πŸ˜€πŸ˜€